August 22 and 23 - the last days of trip

The last two days of the trip were spent in Iceland doing a bit of 'walk about', relaxing at the Blue Lagoon spa, visiting a few museums, and having one final fish dinner at The Pearl restaurant.

Then we had the long flight home which was smooth and uneventful, thankfully.

Even though we only had one sunny day the trip was a great success and we had a great time! Freewheeling, our bike touring company, did a first class job and made the trip that much more enjoyable despite the weather. Our bike group was small, only 6 of us and two guides, and we all got along great and enjoyed each others company.  We will have many great remembrances of this trip, our accomplishment of riding our bikes through the rolling hills (read hilly) of the Lofoten Islands, and our touring around Iceland.

The Blue Lagoon, where we soaked for over 2 hours. (See swim up bar to right)

The non-swimming part of the Blue lagoon is very pretty and geothermal power plant seen in background.

Famous sculpture we saw on our "walk about"

The all glass exterior of the Concert Hall

Sculptures are all over the place here.

Our final 'fish' meal at the Pearl

We visited a great whale museum where they have species of whales all life size and you can walk around them to get sense of true size.

August 21 - touring around Iceland

(Posted by Alan)
Today's blog will be short and simple. This morning in the pouring rain we got on the tour bus to see the major sights of Iceland. We had booked the 'Gray Line's Classic Circle Tour' which is an 8 hour tour that I highly recommend for any new comer to Iceland. Our guide, a native young lady who has lived here all her life, was great and gave us a lot of info about the area, growing up and living in Iceland, and history about the area. The pouring rain stopped soon after we started the tour and was off and on during the day but did not stop us from having a good time or taking lots of pictures. After we got back the weather had cleared up a lot so we walked up the street to one of the main sights of the city, Hallgrim's Church, went to the top and took pictures. Tomorrow is our spa day at the Blue Lagoon.

At the edge of the North American Tectonic plate!

The plate is spreading here about 1+ inches a year

The dark hills in the background are the start of the  Eurasia plate.

On the  hot springs and geysers

The Gullfoss water falls - quite spectacular

Hallgrim's Church - up the street from our hotel.

A view of city from top of church

August 19 -20: From Reine to Reykjavik

(Posted by Alan)

It took us two days to get from Reine to Reykjavik via Oslo, and it almost didn't happen. On our last morning in Reine we were to take a three hour ferry at 9:00am from Reine to Bodo. From there take a plane to Oslo where we planned to tour around for the better part of the afternoon then next morning catch the plane to Reykjavik. Only that morning's weather was a continuation of the stormy and rainy weather we have been experiencing this whole trip, and when we showed up at the ferry terminal the place was abandoned and no sign of a ferry. We then discovered we had read the schedule wrong and just a few days earlier the schedule changed and ferry was not to leave until 11:00am. Still OK to make our connecting flight, but when our guide called to double check the schedule we learned that all ferry traffic had been canceled due to high seas and wind! So after a lot of frantic calling to airlines and travel insurance folk we got new tickets out of the airport we came in at at beginning of trip! So very luckily the tour van had not left yet and let us pile back in and hitch a ride back (4 hour drive) which basically retraced our bike route! It was quite amazing to retrace the route and realize we had biked all this way up all these hills and along all those fjords.

Our flight to Oslo was not until 8p, so we didn't get to our hotel until after 11p. So no touring Oslo that afternoon. The hotel was advertised as "shabby chic" which made for interesting decor. Intentionally ripped wallpaper, strange carpet patterns that look worn but was not, and other stuff. But the room was first class for comfort, cleanliness, and amenities, Just 'shabby chic'. The next morning we had a few hours to tour around Oslo before catching train back to airport.

We have not had any time yet to explore Reykjavik, but the weather is the same as all week, overcast and rain, but by now we are used to it and don't really notice. We did get out to wander down to the harbor district and have dinner at the 'Sea Baron' restaurant which is a hole in the wall place advised to us by our daughter Heather as having life changing lobster soup! So we had to go, and it was as good as advertised. Tomorrow we take the tour of the area so hope the weather improves.

Us all piling back in the van for a 4 hour ride back to Harstad

Our 'shabby chic' room in Oslo

The 'shabby chic' hall way to room - roof rafters included.

Touring around Oslo - just couldn't resist the statue with pigeon on head

Our hotel from the outside

Oslo Opera house with walkway all around and on roof.

Outside hotel in Reykjavik - another hotel with 'charm' No chain hotels for us!

Having life changing lobster soup.

Recovering in Reine

(Posted by Susan)

We had a low-key day in this beautiful fishing village.  It started with an easy walk around a lake where we saw a nice waterfall.  Then we had lunch at a seafood deli where we had "fish burgers"--nothing like the kind of fish sandwich you would get at MacDonalds.  These almost looked like pancakes but were made of cod (of course).  The deli also sold fish fillets, crab, fish snacks, etc. and you could even buy whole dried cod.  It doesn't look like anything you would eat, but we have been eating it all week!  There was also a chandelier made of dried cod! (see pics below)

After lunch the weather deteriorated to rain and wind.  Alan and I went to a little art museum near our inn, which featured a nice slide show of photography of this area, and paintings of local scenery.  We rested a bit, then our group went to another fishing village where we went to a fishing museum.  There were 7 different buildings to walk through--post office, typical fisherman's family house, blacksmith shop, cod liver oil factory (!), boat house, etc.  Then we went to have our last dinner together.  Every restaurant we have been to this week has been fantastic.  We have not lost weight on this trip.

A word about our guides Sascha and Pascal.  Sascha is from Germany but lives in these islands, so he was a wealth of information.  He was our driver and Pascal was our biking guide.  Pascal is from Halifax, 25 years old, and has traveled and biked all over the world.  They were both so helpful and took such good care of us.  Poor Pascal had to slow his biking down to stay with Alan and me but he was ever patient.  The 2 of them made excellent picnic lunches for us and made many adjustments to cope with the bad weather.

To answer some of my pre-trip questions:  We did not pack too much.  We did forget something.  We trained the best we could but it probably wasn't enough because this trip was very hilly.  We got along great with our fellow riders.  All in all a great trip.  Tomorrow we go back to Oslo for a night and then on to Iceland.

Our troup on hike around a mountain lake

The town of Reine

A pile of dried cod. I was considering buying one but no room in suitcase - darn!

A dried cod lamp.

August 17 - Ballstad to Reine - We made it!!!

(Posted by Alan)
This was our last day of riding and although only 43Km route it was going to be the most hilly. The day started off auspiciously with a 45 minute 'ferry ride' across from Ballstad to Nusfjord where we were to start riding. I put 'ferry' in quotes because it was not really a ferry, but a small fishing trawler that takes bikers and other non-car riding tourists across the straight to Nusfjord. The crossing was a little rough but we had some shelter under an eve at front of boat, we were warned to dress warm which we did, so not bad at all.

In Nusfjord we started riding. The weather was nice for a change and sunny, but storm clouds were on the horizon so we loaded up with all our rain gear just in case. We rode for about an hour through gorgeous country side and fjords to our lunch site, a picnic at the Flakstad beach.

After lunch which was very yummy, including freshly ground French pressed coffee, we started off biking again. Unfortunately the weather turned on us, but this time we saw the rain cresting over the mountains and coming for us, so we stopped and suited up with our full regalia of rain gear. And the  rain came accompanied with a wind that gusted to 29 knots! So the biking was hard with the wind, the rain, and the hills, but we stayed dry this time. Plus the rain only lasted 15 minutes or so, really just a short squall, then the clouds parted, but unfortunately the wind remained. That head wind remained for the rest of our day, you had to keep pedaling to keep from going backwards, so we stopped a lot to rest and take pictures.

We ended in the town of Reine which is said to be the most picturesque fishing village in Norway. More pictures of the town tomorrow when have time to explore. But We made it!!! Our total distance Susan and I traveled by bike was 279Km (173 miles).  This was the end of our biking adventure in Norway :-(  Tomorrow we rest and take a short hike and just take in the village.

Dinner that evening was first class again, and you had your choice of cod salad, baked cod, lamb, or vegetarian pasta.  I didn't want anything heavy so I once again had cod, this time the cod salad and a vegetable soup which was very good.

Those "i" on map are locations of tunnels we by passed

Our 'ferry'

Luxury accommodations on the 'ferry'

Rough seas but no one got sea sick. Boat stayed close to shore.

Our long and winding road

picnic at the beach.

The town of Reine

August 16 - Svolvaet to Ballstad - wash out!

(Posted by Alan)
The clouds returned today so we knew we were going to have another wet ride. But first let me say a few words about the great breakfasts we have been having on this trip! When we booked this trip the literature said that breakfasts were included and provided by the hotel. So we expected something like what we get in the States - wrong!! The standard breakfasts that come with the hotels here are like a gourmet spread to rival the best brunches at home. First is the ever present smoked lox and then an assortment of meats (some I am not sure of the origin or curing method), then pickled fish, then home made breads, fruit, cereals, eggs, bacon, waffles, ..... you get the point.

So we start off on today's trek with a slight drizzle in the air but not bad and visibility is fair, so we are wearing minimal rain gear. Then we would run into a rain squall and stop and suit up for heavy rain only to have it stop a few minutes later. So then we would take off all the rain gear. The problem with rain gear is that it does not breathe, so even though it keeps you drier, you still get wet because you are sweating so much. So you want to take it off as soon as possible to dry off. Well we timed it wrong at about the 33Km point and got caught in a gale force wind, keep pedaling or be pushed backwards, with a driving rain that actually hurt when it hit your face, and we did not have all our rain gear on at the time. So we got soaked! We tried to keep going but decided to call it a day. An other couple in our group and the one on the e-bike (more about that later) did keep going, but we called for a pickup. It was sad to have to stop but the rain was torrential, high winds, and could not see much scenery. So today was a 'wash out'.

Now about the e-bike. Susan and I have been offered a chance to try it out but declined because we know if we try it, there will be no going back! The bike has three power modes, and a full set of rear wheel gears like a normal bike. In 'eco' mode you get about a 50% assist that will last you most of a full days ride. When you get to big hills you can step it up to normal mode and then again about 50% effort but drains battery more so used sparingly. So the one on the e-bike (there is only one person who opted for this kind of bike in our troop) will normally get to destination much sooner than us. So Susan and I see this as our next bikes when we hit 70s.

One last note - I am tired of eating cod fish now!! All cod here is of the dried for three months and then reconstituted kind that is then either stewed or grilled in a vat of butter.  Was offered an alternative of goat meat last night but choose the cod stew.

Svolvaer sun rise

Getting ready for the days journey

These purple flowers are everywhere here.

I wish we could have got more on this road it was not very hilly

Goats playing on a rock - one reason I went back to cod for dinner.

One drowned Alan  :-(

A working replica Viking boat seen out window of our room.

Ballstad in the evening mist

Dried cod. They are stiff as a board.